Installing a Catalytic Converter. Popular Searches. If you do, you've basically got two options: bolt on or weld-on. Either option will complement your Magnaflow mufflers and help boost your overall exhaust system performance. But for installation purposes, if you don't know how to handle a welding torch, bolt on is the better.

This is a fairly simple job (it only took me half an hour), but you do need some specialist materials: • Wheel ramps. Do NOT attempt any jobs underneath a car supported just by a jack. People die like that. • Eye protection (unless you enjoy rust, dirt and toxic chemicals being dropped in your eyes.?)• Metal snips.

• Screwdriver (flat-head, to match the jubilee clips). • Assorted pliers, spanners and thumpy things. • (available from any car spares store). Rar Password Recovery Rapidlibrary Downloads. • An empty tin can. You should also wear appropriate clothing - spare a thought for whoever does the laundry in your home, and be aware that you could quite easily get un-removable gloop on your clothes. An old hat might help as well.

Step 2: Find Your Problem. Unfortunately, my exhaust broke at an odd-shaped bit which meant I had to fix it from the inside out. Program Minitor V Narrow Band Uvb Dosing Regimen more. I used the snips to turn the can into a sheet of steel, then rolled it up to be small enough to fit into the exhaust (be careful of sharp edges, both on the cut can and on the broken ends of the exhaust - tetanus jabs hurt). I slid the rolled can most of the way into the steadier part of the exhaust, with only half an inch (1cm) or so sticking out. I then pushed the other part of the exhaust into place, and slid the rolled can into that section as well, shuffling it a little at a time by grasping the rolled can with a wide-open plumber's wrench.

• If the break had been at a straight section, I could have wrapped the can around the outside of break, locking it in place with a pair of jubilee clips. Step 4: Fixing. Although the rolled can completed the exhaust, and took the weight of the looser section, it was not secure enough to move the car, nor was it fume-tight.

I needed to pull the loose section up tight against the fixed section. I put one jubilee clip around the loose section of exhaust, and threaded the second clip through the first, then around the protruding part of the fixed section. Tightening the first clip provided a firm anchor point, then tightening the second clip pulled the broken ends tight together. I then smeared the joint in copious quantities of exhaust fixing paste and left it to set. Unfortunately, I have not found any tool more effective for getting the paste in the right place than the human finger. If you have sensitive or broken skin, you can either use a small spatula or stick, or wear gloves.

Once I was happy the whole thing was fixed, I snipped off the loose ends of the jubilee clips, to try and stop loose stuff getting caught under the car in future. Step 5: Caveat.

This is a bodge job. It is not a long-lasting repair. It's not great engineering, but it cost about five pounds ($10) for the paste and the clips, and I borrowed the ramps. That's a twentieth the cost of a professional job, and even less should the garage decide you need a whole new exhaust.

Add to that the fact that the car only need to last another six months or so, and it's the perfect solution to a problem which would have kept the car off the road for a week, when I need to get to work again on Monday. I am abiding by the 'be nice policy'. Thats a crappy job but something is better than nothing. Welding deteriorated metal presents a challenge too.

In any case, if it can last to the next inspection then its gud enuff. Other potential sites for exhaust leaks are at the connecting points. People often confuse exhaust noise here with a leak in the muffler. When I continued to have leaks at my exhaust flange, rather than cutting, replacing flange and welding I used a 'C Flange Bracket'. After several revisions the final lasted and is still on my truck after 2 years. I am going to try to remain positive here but it's going to be hard.

Yes this will help cut down on the noise that your car is making, it is the worst example of home car repair I have see in a while. Kiteman kudos for trying to fix it and I know it is not ment for a long term fix but see how many people are wanting to do this to pass smog tests and inspections. Not to mention this could cause more damage to the car or cars behind it if something broke and came off the car like the tail pipe. I know the point of all of this is to do a low cost repair but this is even pushing that. A better fix would have been to borrow a hack saw and cut off the flange and for about $10 bucks buy 2 exhaust clamps and a double flared patch pipe from the auto parts store and installed that and it would last for a couple of years and be a lot safer and pass inspection. Again this would be a temp fix for the side of the road but I would not encourage anyone to do this is they have time to either do it right or at least get a few basic parts.

Hope I was not to harsh. I fixed my exhaust system (on a 2000 civic) when plagued with the same problem depicted here. My fix stemmed from this instructable though I used several different components for the fix. Rather than using a tin can I used a piece of metal piping, roughly 4 inches long. Rather than jubilee clips I used metal wire. Jubilee clips were not need because bolts were present that held the joint, and the part in which the bold clamped to was what had snapped.

I would suggest only one jubilee clip to be used (around the pipe), and metal wire replacing the jubilee clip that is not around the pipe. I also substituted the repair paste with high heat JB weld (). I don't have a picture of the fix yet, though should in the next few days to attach as well:). Interesting Instructable, never underestimate the power of temporary repairs, its worth knowing how to do them just in case. In the uk you can actually buy a kit with a curved sheet metal section to wrap it, adhesive and clamps, never used one but I guess its pretty well the same thing but probably more expensive and not as readily available. The thing about safety is always err on the side of caution, if you have any doubt about a part being able to support the car don't use it. I own both ramps and 2 sets of axle stands and both are quite good for different jobs.

But either way be very careful and make sure it's secure, and if you're not confident, find someone who knows what they're doing to help or take it to a professional. For those discussing UK power, yes it is as standard 13A but its at 230V rather than 110V so the effective power is about the same as 25+A at 110V. A standard uk wall socket is quite capable of supplying enough power for welding even some quite thick metal.